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Lawn Fungus Problems

July 13, 2012

Those brown areas in your lawn could be caused by a lawn disease (fungus), lawn insects, or hot dry weather.  So how do you figure out if a lawn disease is the problem?

There are a range of lawn diseases that show up with warm, humid weather.  These fungus problems are especially active when your night temperatures and humidity do not drop very much from the levels you are experiencing during daytime hours.  You can help your situation by not watering your lawn in the evening as this helps to hold humidity at high levels next to your grass plants for an extended period of time.  Experts will always suggest that if you have to water, it is best to irrigate in the morning.  Lawns located where air movement is restricted by a fence or hedge generally experience more lawn disease problems as compared to more open areas.

You can help strengthen your grass by not under or over-feeding and by mowing at a taller height.  You can also help strengthen your lawn with the newer grass varieties.  Many of the grass seed varieties that are available in the top-of-the line seed blends today, like the Turf Builder Grass Seed line, have improved resistance to lawn diseases built right in compared to the older grass varieties.

Use the photos  and descriptions below tell if you have some of the more common lawn disease problems in your lawn.

If you need to protect your grass from lawn fungus, Scotts Lawn Fungus Control is a good “systemic” cure, which means the active ingredient is absorbed into your grass plants to protect them from the inside.  (older “contact” controls must stay on the leaf surface becoming less effective as you mow).

If you need more help you can speak to a lawn consultant by contacting The Scotts Help Center (click here to learn how).

Brown Patch on Tall Fescue – Circular patches of dead grass are a symptom of several lawn fungus problems such as Brown Patch and Summer Patch show up during periods of warm temperatures and high humidity.

Red Thread on Ryegrass – Light tan 2 to 36 inch round patches appear in cool, wet weather. Patches may grow together to blight large areas. Pink or red threads can protrude from the dead grass blades.

Dollar Spot on Kentucky Bluegrass – Circular light brown straw color spots up to 6 inches across. Individual grass blades have white blotches edged in reddish brown the shape of an hour glass. Other lawn diseases that show spots on grass blades are Rust and Leaf Spot.

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60 Comments
  1. Gary Ray permalink

    I noticed this morning some white spots in my front yard. We had a fairly heavy dew along with high humidity. When I reached down to see what it was it almost seemed like a web, but when I touched it I discovered that it was just moisture. There were maybe 8 to 10 of these spots of varying sizes from 2″ to 6″ in diameter. I am assuming that it is some type of fungus. Would you please enlighten me as to what this might be, and how to treat it? Thank you!

    • Hi Gary Ray
      Sounds like you have dollar spot. Look at individual grass blades to see if you have a quarter inch bleached out spot with reddish brown edges. There are two ways to treat: 1) If your lawn has not been fed a few months, feeding will help get rid of this fungus. 2) If your lawn does not need feeding and you are seeing this spread, you can treat your lawn with Scotts Lawn Fungus Control.

  2. vinny permalink

    the top layer of my soil is turning black .. i am thinking this is from poor drainage due to hard or compacted soilk.. do you think that is the reason.if so what do you suggest

    • Hi Vinny
      You are correct. You are probably looking at a layer of algae which is a sign of poor drainage and/or low soil pH. If you can improve the soil in this area by incorporating several inches of organic matter, like Scotts Lawn Soil, into the existing soil this would help. Also, if you are in the Northeast or Mid Atlantic or Southeast, it is likely that your soil pH is low, so Lime would help to raise the pH to a more favorable range for good grass growth. A soil test with your local cooperative extension service would help you figure out if lime would help.

  3. Charles permalink

    how can I tell the difference between lawn fungus and lawn insects causing my problems.

    • Hi Charles
      Lawn fungus damage either has specific circular patches in your grass or spots/blemishes on individual grass blades that ultimately cause the blade to turn brown. Weather conditions favorable for lawn fungus are generally warm/hot and humid. Sometimes you see web-like material in the grass early in the morning when there is dew present. Insects are more common. There are a number of different ones (sodwebworm, cutworm, chinchbug) that damage grass soon after you see tan moths flying up in the evening when you mow. The grass turns brown and thins with no particular pattern. Many times the damage is only in the sunny areas. Hope this helps.

      • james huddleston permalink

        i have yellowing and then the grass thins and bermuda takes over.how do i fix this problem.i have about an acre or so in st augustine and need to know what to use..

      • Hi James
        I know exactly what you are talking about. If you have bermudagrass in your lawn and get an opening in a sunny area, the bermudagrass is quick to send in runners to produce new plants. Bermudagrass does not like shade, so this is one of the reasons we suggest mowing your St. Augustinegrass at a 3 to 4 inch mowing height to help shade the lower growing bermudagrass that prefers a mowing height of 1-1/2 to 2 inches. Feed your St. Augustinegrass now with Southern Turf Builder or GreenMax and also protect it from insect attack with Ortho Bug-B-Gon MAX. The spring weed and feeds for St. Augustinegrass, like Bonus S also help to favor the St. Augustine over the Bermudagrass, however the Bermudagrass will probably always be there.

  4. Cynthia permalink

    I have l alot of brown spots that varies in size over my entire lawn.I have bermuda grass and it looks terrible..I have tried weed and feed, watering and sometimes fertilizer..Do you have any suggestions??

    • Hi Cynthia
      If you have not fed your bermuda grass since late spring, give it a feeding now with Scotts GreenMax or Scotts Southern Turf Builder. This will help strengthen your grass and return the dark green color. If the brown areas persist and are in a circular pattern that range from several inches to a foot or more, you can treat with Scotts Lawn Fungus Control, however I would go the feeding route first since Bermuda really likes to be fed this time of year, and evaluate your situation a couple of weeks after feeding.

  5. Scott permalink

    Hello, I live in Chicago and we have had horrendous heat/drought conditions. My lawn is the only one one the street with severe brown out spots and areas that look matted down and completely dead (like a river ran over it if you know what I mean). It seems the more I try to water (early evening, early morning) the problem gets worse. This is the second year I have had to re-do my yard. Also, I have noticed a ton of dirt hills with some type of cicada burrowing. They always leave a fresh mound in the morning. Are these two issues related? What should I do about it? It seems to happen each July/august.

    • Hi Scott
      Sounds like you may have had a lawn insect problem. One of the tell tale signs of lawn insects is tan moths flying up from your lawn when you mow or walk thru the grass in the evening. This generally starts to show up in your area during June. The moths lay eggs for sod webworm and cutworm. Other insects like chinchbug also attack at that time of year. The grass is weaker during hot, dry weather and the insects really do their damage when the grass is weak. I don’t think the cicadas killed your grass. If you still have living grass, and you have been seeing moths, you might want to treat with Ortho BugBGon MAX granules. Hope this helps.

      • Scott permalink

        Thanks, I haven’t noticed moths recently, but I’ll give it a try. How do I know if its insect damage versus lawn fungus? Can I treat for both or is that overkill (no pun intended…)

  6. Hi Scott
    I read your first post again, and I missed your reference to “spots” and took it that you had large dead areas. Sorry. If the dead areas are more like spots or patches about a foot in diameter and some of them touch to form larger areas, then it sounds more like lawn fungus like Summer Patch, Necrotic Ring Spot or Fusarium Blight. You sometimes see a green patch of grass in the center of the patches, kind of like a donut. If this is the problem, it comes back in the same spots each summer and starts as soon as the weather gets hot and dry with high humidity. It especially likes lawns that are mainly Kentucky Bluegrass. Scotts Lawn Fungus Control can help prevent the problem if it is put down early just before the spots go from a off color to brown. If you seed your lawn again, use a grass seed blend that would be more resistant to this fungus, like Scotts Heat-Tolerant Blue. Hope this helps. Kind of hard to do a complete diagnosis when I am not standing on your lawn.

    • Scott permalink

      Thanks again, I know its difficult without seeing it…can I send you pictures?

  7. Scott:
    Sorry there is no picture posting feature on this blog. Go to the Scotts Help Center page and you could email pictures to our lawn consultants: http://www.scotts.com/smg/helpcenter/helpCenter.jsp

  8. Larry permalink

    Ashton
    we used Turfbuilder with summerguard for the first time this year on July 12-13 and shortly after words we noticed we had a fungus so we applied the first ap of Scott’s Lawn Fungus Control one week later then followed that with another ap 2 weeks later. We no longer see any signs of the fungus but on the north end of our yard where the fungus was the worse we now have numerous little ant hills that are driving my wife crazy. I am going to put down some Ortho Bug B gone this weekend or the spray? however I was wondering if the ant problem iscaused from the summerguard or because my crazy next door neighbor who waters the north end(front yard) of their house everyday of the week for any where from 2-6 hours at a time. the front yard is nothing but weeds and they had very little fungus problem use a mowing service and never ferilize or treat the lawn to any fertilizer etc.

  9. Hi Larry
    Ant hills are sometimes a sign of the ant colony trying to protect from water running into their ant tunnel system. So, your observation of the extra water being put down next door may be a clue to the extra mounds you are seeing. Ortho Bug B Gon MAX does a great job on ants. I suggest you use the granules and water after application. Good luck with your lawn.

  10. Janice Webb permalink

    I have one large yellow spot which seems to be growing, in pulling at the grass it seems to be dead. Could it be a fungus or bugs, don’t know how to treat, otherwise the grass looks beautiful with using Sott’s turf builder.
    Any help

    • Hi Janice
      Tell me where you are located so I can make a better guess at what is going on with your lawn.

  11. ashton i live in north carolina i have bermuda/centerped grass type i uses gr een max fertlizer weedb gone max grass is great my question is my bermuda grass turns brown after i cut is that normal or cutting to low and after a few days green up i feeds every 2months from febury to august and i uses scotts winter/fall in sept and november should i lime once a year

    • Hi Bobby
      Your grass height should be around 1-1/2 inches after you cut. Also mow frequently enough so that you do not mow off more than a third of the growth each time you mow. Here is a link to one of my blog postings that provides some more info: https://tipsfromashton.wordpress.com/2013/06/06/three-mowing-tips-to-improve-your-lawn/
      You Centipede grass only likes 2 or 3 feedings a year, while your Bermuda grass likes the number of feedings you are giving now. Too much feeding on Centipede and it will start to thin out and your Bermuda will be stronger, especially in the sunny areas. A soil test would tell you your soil pH and if you need to lime.

  12. Jim permalink

    I live in Chicago both house several years ago previous owner had a lawn service so we kept them. last few yrs had no problems but this yr I’ve notice yellowish in blades of grass which seem to be spreading and killing lawn. I know its a fungus of some sorts? tips of grass blades dont seem to be clean cut and have a yellowish brown color on them. Could this be from service not sharpening their blades enough and might have a fungus on blades? What can I do to correct this? They spread weed/feed which I dont have weeds but as i said lawn looks to be turning yellowish and tips of lawn have yellow brownish colors on them

    • Hi Jim
      Thanks for telling me where you are located as it really helps. This is the time of year for various lawn fungus problems, some of which will not kill your lawn, they just make it look bad until the temps and humidity drop. A dull lawn mower will leave the grass blades jagged. This can give your lawn a brownish look compared to a more clean cut. Some grass types, like perennial ryegrass, show this more than others. If they are feeding your lawn 4 times a year and mowing at a height that leaves your grass at around 2-1/2 inches after the cut, just hang in there till the weather shifts and they feed your lawn this fall. If the fungus is in circular patches, you could get some kill that may fill-in when you have more optimum grass growth this fall. Scotts Lawn Fungus Control provides some protection.

  13. sue permalink

    I work with a full service landscaping company. We are odds with bagging or not bagging lawn cuts. I think with the fungal issues we have been having in Michigan lately our best defense is bagging. What is your opinion? My other opinions are to apply fungicides every 14-21 days and to clean mowers more often. Looking forward to your opinion.

    • Hi Sue
      Several thoughts for you: First, to have a lawn fungus infestation, three things need to line up: a grass that is not resistant to the fungus, the right temp/humidity, and the fungus spores present. Any one of those things missing and the disease stops. So now to your question. I believe the spores will be present whether you remove the clippings or let them fall back into the lawn. So, it gets down to waiting for the weather to change or putting down a fungicide. Having said all that, one thing that can happen if the clippings are heavy is a localized increase in temp/moisture in that spot. So you may want to pick them up if they are really heavy. You may be able to reduce the spread of the fungus from lawn to lawn by cleaning the mowers good. But my guess is that removing the clippings when you mow will not go a long way in reducing the fungus problem in that particular lawn until the weather changes. Feeding in fall is really important for Michigan lawns. Hope the rest of the season goes well with you.

  14. Bob LEgacy permalink

    I seem to get a lawn fungus each year.., and it is very frustrating. The lawn starts out great in the spring and then comes the problems. This year is no different and I have been battling ‘something’, all season. I believe this something to be dollar spot since I have seen the white crystal grown after a rain and the rest of the symptoms and descriptions seem to fit.

    I have used Scotts fungus/disease control a few times already with no result. I bag my clippings. I water early in the AM, three times/week. I feed (with Scotts) in March and again in May. I have not fed since May.

    One of the most frustrating things is that I seem to pay more attention to my lawn than my neighbors.., but I get the problems. Right now, here in August, the lawns around me look a lot better than mine.

    How can I stop this?
    Why do I continue to have problems each year?
    I use Scott’s products exclusively.., so please help me with this.

    • Hi Bob LEgacy
      Sorry to hear about your lawn fungus problem. Some grass varieties are more prone to get dollar spot than others. I have seen big differences on research plots between different varieties of Kentucky Bluegrass. Some plots are loaded and others have no symptoms even though they all received the same treatment. The newer varieties do not seem to get this problem as much as some of the older varieties. You are doing all the right things. My only suggestion would be a light feeding along with your fungicide application (feed a week before). Be sure to water after both applications. The Turf Builder SummerGuard would be a good choice. The feeding helps grass recover from dollar spot and helps the systemic fungicide in our product get absorbed into the grass plant. As weather conditions change this fall and you are back to feeding your lawn again, your dollar spot will diminish. Good Luck.

  15. rlegacy@att.net permalink

    Are lawn fungus problems killed off during winter? Or do they go dormant and reappear in the spring?

    • Hi rlegacy
      Lawn fungus problems stop when the weather changes to temp/humidity that they do not enjoy. The spores are laying dormant in your lawn until the conditions are right for the fungus to become active, which is typically next year.

    • Hi Bob Legacy
      The local Scotts experts are with Scotts Lawn Care Service. You can find info on our lawn care service on Scotts.com Some of our local retailers will provide some on the lawn advice. I hope you can solve your dollar spot problem. The suggestion I provided about feeding the week before putting down a fungicide followed by watering after application should help. Ultimately the answer might be to plant a grass seed blend that has some dollar spot resistance. This may not be practical if your lawn is in reasonably good shape now and much better shape this fall with the weather change and your feeding.

      • R Legacy permalink

        Hello Ashton:

        Sorry to keep pestering you on this…, My interest is to kill the spores and hopefully eliminate my annual problem. Can you please tell me how do I do that. I want to address the root cause of the problem.., not the symptom.

        Lawn fungus problems stop when the weather changes to temp/humidity that they do not enjoy. The spores are lying dormant in your lawn until the conditions are right for the fungus to become active, which is typically next year.

        Robert D. Legacy

        12957 Double Eagle Drive

        Carmel, IN 46033

        ***

        317-408-9604 – Mobile

      • Hi Robert
        I am not aware of how to kill Dollar Spot spores that are dormant in your lawn. It is kind of like cold germs being present: When the conditions are right, colds spread and based on your health at the time you may luck out and not catch one. You can wash your hands to help prevent picking up cold germs and all those kind of things, but sometimes your system is susceptible. The fungus organism that causes Dollar Spot is Sclerotinia: Here is a link to more info you may find useful: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dollar_spot

      • Robert permalink

        Hi Ashton:

        I appreciate your feedback and patience.

        Since I have already treated with the fungus/disease control I cannot follow your recommendation of feeding, waiting a week and then treating. In fact, I have applied several treatments thus far.

        My plan now is to retreat a few more times (every other week) to hopefully stop the spread…, and then feed in late September or perhaps early October.

      • Hi Robert
        I understand. One good thing is that Dollar Spot is not one of those fungus problems that tends to kill lawns. You generally see recovery when the weather conditions change. All the experts suggest a light feeding to help with recovery, that is why I was suggesting a feeding to tie in with your fungicide application. By the way… you live in a very nice part of central Indiana!

  16. Era Sue permalink

    Hi Ahston,

    I live in Augusta, Georgia My husband and I had St. Augustine sod laid. Shortly after, we were notified that we have Grey Leaf Fungus. We hired a landscaper to come out and they fertilized and also sprayed a fungicide. They said that it may take one, maybe two tries to get it gone, or else it could lay dormant and come back next year. No problem. My problem now is we are getting non-consistent purple blades of grass. I have heard/read several possibilities for this, What would you think this could be? We haven’t had ANY cold temps at all (unfortunately). Just a lot of humidity. We water daily around 5am. Any help is appreciated. PS, It is a pretty shade of purple but not when we paid so much for this grass :/

    • Hi Era
      Purple blades in your St. Augustine are mostly associated with a sudden drop in temps (which you have not had) or low nutrition mainly around potassium all though it can be associated with other nutrients. I would not be too concerned. Once your sod is established with strong roots you should see this go away. Not sure what and when they fed your grass. Your last feeding of the year should be with a lawn food that has high Nitrogen and Potassium like the Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard and should occur about a month or so after the last feeding, but not later than the end of this month.

  17. Lorie permalink

    Hi. It’s spring here in Wichita ks. We recently had a late hard freeze. Prior to that I had used Scott’s Halts. Now, about 2 weeks since the freeze my grass looks pinkish red. It’s not in round locations, it’s just everywhere. Today I noticed it starting in the front yard. Could this be red thread?

    • Hi Lorie
      Do you know what kind of lawn you have? Did you use Halts with Turf Builder or just Halts?

      • Lorie permalink

        Hi. Thanks so much for the quick response. Not positive on grass but think its a fescue. halts with turf builder. Didn’t seem to phase all the crab grass. And definitely didn’t phase the hen bit or dandelions. I think the lawn is compacted. Moved into the house last July. Lawn was ok but this year it’s very hard ground. Also have a vole problem but not too serious. I have been using a fertilome product to ward off the voles. Wondering if this could be part of the problem. Sorry…just a lot to digest.

  18. Hi Lorie
    Thanks for all the additional info. Don’t think you have red thread. Frost would not have caused this on Fescue. There are other grass types in Wichita (Buffalograss, Zoysia and Bermuda). Sometimes you may see a physiological condition show up on these grasses that gives a reddish color to some of the grass blades when they are fed as they come out of winter dormancy and you get a cold snap afterwards. This physiological condition does not usually show up on Fescue This is not a fungus disease problem and does not need to be treated as it will go away on its own. Regarding your weeds, Halts only prevents new crabgrass from growing, which has not started to show up yet in your area. (Crabgrass germinates in spring, lives during summer and dies in fall with the first hard freeze. It is an annual grass.) Halts does not take care of any existing weeds, like Henbit or Dandelion or any perennial grasses that may be there now and are often confused with crabgrass. You can spray Henbit, Dandelions and many other weeds with Ortho Weed B Gon MAX plus Crabgrass Killer. The grass that is there now that is not crabgrass is likely a perennial grass that can not be selectively killed without killing your good grass. Hope all this helps and good luck with your new home!

    • Lorie permalink

      Wow! You are a life saver! Thank you so much. First week in May planning on applying Scots weed and feed. I also think the ground is very compacted. Planning to aerate next week. Thanks again!

  19. Hi Lorie
    One more thing… after you aerate you may get a few stray crabgrass plants since the weed prevention barrier will be broken during the aeration process. If that happens you can spray any young crabgrass plants that may show up in June with the Ortho Weed B Gon MAX plus Crabgrass Killer I mentioned earlier. This can also be sprayed on any weeds that the weed & feed does not take care of.

  20. Greg permalink

    Hi, I planted a new lawn 5 weeks ago. It came up great. I had to leave for 3 days so I put on my automatic sprinklers. When I came home my lawn was still real nice but I had a few brown spots that the grass looked like it was laying over. It spread very fast. I put on some lawn fungus product. It has slowed down now. How do I get my lawn back? Greg from southern oregon

    • Hi Greg
      There is a fungus that attacks new grass seedlings when both moisture and temperatures are high. This can sometimes be a problem with late spring seedings because you are bumping up against hotter weather. Fall seedings where the grass is maturing as the temps are dropping, especially the night temps is more ideal. You want to shift from a frequent watering schedule that encourages new grass seed to grow more toward one that encourages deep roots. This means skipping a few days between watering and extending the time of watering so you are starting to get to a half inch twice a week. Set your mower so the height is around two and a half inches after the cut. You may need to seed some of the areas this fall. Hope this helps.

  21. WOW just what I was searching for. Came here by searching for organic gardening

  22. Yvette Cooke permalink

    I have already sprayed my lawn with fungus killer, will my lawn grow back? What should I do next?

    • Hi Yvette Cooke
      Grasses can get a range of fungus problems. Some kill the grass while others set the grass back and it can recover under the right conditions. I might be able to guess the most likely fungus problems for your type of grass if you let me know where you are located and your grass type if you know it. Some fungicides are systemic, meaning they get absorbed into the grass plant and protect it from the inside. Others form a protective shield over grass blade surfaces to help keep the fungus from spreading. Not sure what product you used, however that would help also. Scotts Lawn Fungus Control granules are systemic and provide cure and protection from several important grass fungus problems.

      • David permalink

        HI I live in Las Vegas and my grass has several areas where it’s going bald and yellow and some areas are deep green I’m not sure if it’s a fungus or it just died from a lack or watering or maybe it’s something more complex I drove down to my local nursery and asked about the issue. The guy didn’t seem to care and all he said is if I use a fertilizer on the lawn and it has a fungus it will kill the whole lawn can you possibly she’d any light on my issue. …. thank you

      • Hi David
        Thanks for giving me your location as this really helps. Based on where you live, my first guess is that your sprinklers may not be giving complete coverage and you are seeing the grass dry out in the areas that are receiving less water. Check this out with by inserting a screwdriver into the green areas and the brown areas to determine if there is a difference in the soil. Your lawn is likely Bermuda grass or Zoysia which likes to be fed when the grass is greening up in spring and then again at 2 month intervals with the last feeding of the year around now. If your lawn has been getting this level of nutrition (about 4 feedings a year), then the yellowing is likely not a nutrient deficiency (unless the last feeding of lawn food did not go down evenly and you have some gaps where your lawn was not fed or some areas where it was over fed and the grass got burned). Fungus problems are not as likely in your area because of the low humidity. The exception would be if your sprinklers are keeping your grass too wet and the drying wind/air is blocked so that you have some local high humidity around the grass, you may see some fungus, however I still would not suspect this would be a problem to worry about. You would see specific circular patterns in the grass. Hope my long answer helps.

  23. Nick N permalink

    Can I put down Lawn Fungus control on existing fungus areas of lawn….also can I put lime down befotre the fungus control..thank you

    • Hi Nick N
      I would put down Scotts Lawn Fungus Control before spreading the lime. Suggest you give your lawn a good watering after spreading the fungus control and then wait a few days before spreading the lime. Also water after putting down the lime. When treating for fungus be sure to spread on the healthy looking grass near the areas with the fungus as well as the areas being attacked by the fungus.

      • Nick Novellino permalink

        Thank you sir…..

      • Nicholas Novellino permalink

        Thank you sir…trying to help an ederly couple in our town…..will follow your plan On May 16, 2016 8:53 AM, “tipsfromashton.wordpress.com” wrote:

        > ashtonritchie commented: “Hi Nick N I would put down Scotts Lawn Fungus > Control before spreading the lime. Suggest you give your lawn a good > watering after spreading the fungus control and then wait a few days before > spreading the lime. Also water after putting down the lime. W” >

  24. bob baker permalink

    Hi,
    I figured my problem was lawn fungus, so I bought a bag of Scott’s Lawn Fungus Control. But I used the whole bag and I realized that I should only have used about a third (or less) for my size lawn. Will this cause damage?

  25. Larry Lisk permalink

    I have active fungus in my coastal NC St Augustine lawn, according to my lawn treatment company who treats the lawn on a regular basis with fertilizer etc.. It has areas about 30″ diameter all over the lawn. My next-door neighbor has had the same problem all summer. We use the same mow/blow/and go company. Is it possible my problems stem from the fungus being transferred from his lawn to mine by the mowers? What should be used to treat this or since it is late October, should I forget it until next spring? Will a freeze kill the fungus? The lawn treatment company applied potash treatment and a pre and post emergent for weeds just this week. They noted on the bill they left that we have active fungus and active cutworms.

    • Hi Larry Lisk
      St. Augustine grass can get a fungus called Brown Patch in fall. This fungus will stop with cold weather, however you can treat it with Scotts Lawn Fungus Control to protect from further spread before cold weather sets in. This is a granular systemic fungicide that you would water after spreading so it can be absorbed into the grass plants to protect. Regarding cutworms… you can treat them with a granular application of Ortho Bug B Gon. Both of these products need to be watered with at least a quarter inch of water after application. You could apply both and then water. Hope this helps.

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